Tuesday, January 6, 2009

Bali Eats: Babi Guling at Ibu Oka in Ubud


Babi Guling Special 35,000 rupiahs (approx S$5)

When I was doing research on what to eat in Bali, one restaurant always seem to pop up and that is this little restaurant in Ubud that sells Babi Guling (Roast Pig). Indeed, it seemed to be the undisputed, "come all the way to Bali must eat" dish. Not only must you try Babi Guling, but you must specifically try the Babi Guling at Ibu Oka which is acknowledged even by the locals to be the best Babi Guling in Bali and indeed, the world.


Whole Roast Pig deskinned

With such an accolade, I could not resist travelling the extra one and a half hours out of Kuta Beach to Ubud in order to taste this wonderous dish and see what the fuss is all about.

The place was pretty crowded when I got there and there were people from different nationalities dining there. I sat beside an American Chinese gentlemen with his African American wife and 2 kids and he was just raving about how good the Babi Guling was. His kids however, were still looking for the nearest MacDonald's.

Babi Guling is essentially a whole roasted pig stuffed with different spices. The whole pig is then carved and served with rice and fried vegetables. They also take the innards, chop them up and fry them to a crisp. I have to tell you that even though everyone raves about this Babi Guling, I just did not find it all that great. The taste was ok, but it's just something I would try once just to say that I have tried it.


Kadek (our driver) finishing his plate of Babi Guling

My driver cum tour guide gobbled up his plate of Babi Guling though. He told me he takes travellers to Ubud a few times a week and he never fails to eat at Ibu Oka.

Just a little bit of info about getting to Ubud. The hotel brochures advertise a full day tour by private car for US $25 per person. That would work out to be about S$150 (4 of us) for the trip. When I got into Bali, I was picked up from the airport by a tour guide who offered to take my whole family on a private tour of Ubud plus sightseeing for 800,000 rupiah or about S$110. Then I found this private driver who offered to take us around for the whole day for 350,000 rupiah or about $50. Our particular driver could speak English pretty well and also doubled up as our tour guide for the day.

Conclusion

I feel sometimes that with all these famous places, one is really pressured to say that they are good simply because everyone seems to rave about them. It is almost like the story of the Emperor's New Clothes. Well, I honestly didn't think much about Babi Guling, but everyone else in the restaurant seems to be devouring their plates of Babi Guling like there's no tomorrow.

Ibu Oka
Opposite the Tourist Centre in Ubud
Opened for lunch till around 2 or 3 pm

If you are looking for transportation, you can contact Kadek at kadek79@yahoo.com
+62 817552841

19 comments:

Wong Ken Mun said...

This place is supposed to be the holy grail of suckling pig. I saw from No Reservations that the secret was that other than the spices, coconut water is poured over the roasting pig every once in a while.

Anonymous said...

That means there's something seriously wrong with your tastebud.

Cheeky said...

sometimes places like that are being hyped up eventhough the food is just so so... some driver/guide will always bring tourists to these places as they get commission from these restaurants...

anyway...i was told by a friend that the good babi guling in Ubud is at a family owned restaurant (he cant recall the name) but he described the place as "a big house situated in a garden... it doesnt look like a restaurant..."

too bad i cannot confirm that as i missed the chance to try it when i was in Bali last year due to bad timing (the restaurant was closed for a major prayer that was to be held the next day), i didnt even get to see that place (since it's closed, i spent time somewhere else instead)...

but when i mentioned the big house like restaurant to my driver, he said he knows exactly which one i'm talking about...so i guess it's there somewhere in Ubud :)

good luck in finding it...hope the food is really as good as my friend said...

cmanling said...

Probably it's an acquired taste. Each time i go to Bali, I never fail to go there. The meat and all are all very tasty and the veggies and rice and spices mix blend together so perfectly.

It's actually pretty easy to go there. Ubud is not a big place. Ask any passerby where is Bu Oka, and they can direct u there.

Anonymous said...

Same. Ask an angmo to try katong laksa and tell him this and that, bet you he doesn't know how what you talking about. Some taste needs to be acquired. Unfortunately when we hear about a popular place, our expectation often shot up before you can pronounce the word BABI.

I remember long time ago I don't eat oyster because it stinks. But almost everyone i know kept telling me about how delicious when eaten raw blah blah blah. Finally my taste bud changed when I tried it when I was in phuket. The oyster was so big and fresh there it just melt into your mouth. From then on, I became a fan of raw oyster.

Clarence said...

Hey! So you ended up in Bali for family hols in the end? GREAT!!
Yes, Ibu Oka is the place for Babi Guling; although the last time I had it, we got in 'late' and they had already ran out of that nice crackling. Some years earlier, I also had great babi guling at a local market in Gianyar town. Not far from Ubud. Think that one tasted even better. :)
Did you try the crispy fried duck (bebek) at Bebek Bengil (Dirty Duck Diner)? This is another 'must try' whilst in Bali...

sumosumo said...

padon my ignorance, but i thought muslims dont eat pork?! and indonesians are muslims aren't they?

hey anon, are u one of those commentators who make rude remarks in the comments pages under the cloak of anonymity?

why dont u identify urself, so we know if its the same anon person talking or someone else.

Anonymous said...

I go to Bali regularly. I have tried all the recommended Babi Guling places (from 5 star hotels to Denpasar, to Nusa Dua to Ubud to my own babi guling in a private villa). I have to say, Ibu Oka is still the best. The truth is you have to appreciate the spices and you must go there early when the food is still hot and the skin is still crispy. However, it is rather oily so you also have to enjoy eating spicy oily rice with pork. The 'boudin' is also enjoyable as it has a sausage consistency rather than a gooey one. All in all, I am never let down by Ibu Oka, but like I said, go early (arrive at 11am) otherwise you are not getting the best on offer. If you want to try another Ubud joint. I recommend Naughty Nuri's ribs (marinated in Kecap Manis), also very yummy. It's too bad you did not enjoy Ibu Oka's. I am quite surprised to be honest.

Damien said...

I love the Babi Guling here. Never fail to visit Ibu Oka wherever I'm in Bali.

Another must try for me is the Nasi Ayam @ Ibu Mangku. Rocks brudder!!!

Anonymous said...

Clarence, now you made my mouth watering as I recall the delicious crispy fried duck at Bebek Bengil. It's really out of this world :-)

LS

Anonymous said...

Interesting to see how a whole pig is being roasted differently. The children must have enjoyed the experience too ; )

Cheers
Ping

ali83 said...

It's not the best babi guling. There are better ones. My favourite one is at Gianyar Traditional Market in the town of Gianyar (3 km from Ibu Oka's place). They opens from 5 am to 9am only and they sells like crazy. This Gianyar place is not a tourist destination spot and not well known for Bali outsiders and chaper but tastier than Ibu Oka's.

Anonymous said...

it looks like lechon from the philippines. you should try the lechon from cebu, philippines. its one of the favorite filipino dishes.

Anonymous said...

--I have tried one Babi Guling near Novotel Hotel/Hotel Niko. If anyone wants to know the place, pls email me at wimmu@yahoo.com.

--Small place by the small road, 3 tables just enough for 10 people. Locals flocked to eat there. Be quick. Normally, it is finished by 2 or 3pm. No more serving after that.

--The food is superb.
skin - glowish smooth light brown, just crispy enough and yet soft and tender.
Meat -- not too much, soft, tender, mixed with spices and herbs.

out of 10 rating,
place=6 (simple), serving =8 (fast)
skin=9 (very good), meat=7.5, soup = 8.5
vege = 6.5(nothing special)
overall taste (spice and herbs dominate)=8.5
price : sgd 4

REMARKS : lingering tasty flavor for those who want traditional fast food in simple place,

VERDICT : will return again and recommend to friends (4 thumbs up out of 5).

Terence said...

Hi Leslie, again thanks for the great food report :)

I was at Ibu Oka in early Dec last year. Actually my wife found it quite ordinary. But for me, once I got out of the mindset that I was eating "sio bak rice" in Singapore and appreciated it on its own merits, I was totally blown away.

First off, the pork itself. It had a very pleasant taste. The veggies, once I got used to it, combined very well with the rice and meat though the crackling could have been rather more crispy.

All in, a winner. Will def go there again on my next visit!

Cheers

serdadoedapoer said...

Babi Guling Bu Oka is not the best babi guling in the world and very expensive and famous b'coz much promotion everywhere, there was one place at Town of Gianyar, more famous and more delicious than Bu Oka's babi guling, only balinese know the taste and know where to buy delicious Babi guling in Bali.

JM Loke said...

I totally agree with u that the Babi Guling there is nothing to shout about. Sure, some of u may think either our tastebuds are out of whack or that it's an acquired taste but I am a real "Chue Yuk Loh" (Pork Lover). I love pork in all it's various forms. I'm not saying it's no good, just that it didn't live up to the hype is all. Now, Bebek Bengil is another story altogether...

ieat said...

I am glad you agree! Can't beat a good suckling pig or Sio Bak found in Singapore right?

sastraBALI said...

well, what can i say,
i'm sastra, as a Balinese man, this kind of Babi Guling is very much know well by my clients overseas. Not just Singaporean / Malay, also Japanese, Aussie, European, and even some Mid East. wow !!
Fantastic !!
but, as a Balinese, i may say that, in BALI as island of thousand temples, every single part of Pork has its own mood ;)
see YOU at BALI 'kampung'
take care

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