Tuesday, December 9, 2008

Tokyo Eats Part 4: Sushi Daiwa: Sashimi at Tsukiji Market


Set Menu 3500 yen

I have never been a big fan of Sushi. In fact, I have never been a big fan of fish either when I was younger. Now, that's a big confession coming from a Teochew Ah Hia 'cos, as you well know, we Teochews (are supposed to) love steamed fish. We love fish so much that we prefer to eat it unadulterated. So for us Teochews, the fish must be fresh, and best eaten just steamed with a dash of Tau Cheo (Fermented Bean Sauce). I guess that is why I hated fish when I was younger 'cos my parents loved to eat the real fishy steamed fish such as Mullet and Peh Dou Her (Rabbit Fish) and that threw me right off.

So you can imagine my excitement when I was first introduced to Sushi many years ago while I was studying in Sydney. It was about the time when the Aussies themselves were being introduced to this form of Japanese cuisine. Fish? Hmmm......ambivalent. Raw fish? You got to be kidding me!

But as the years went by and Sushi became more popular, I had to learn to eat it since sometime, somehow, somewhere..... someone is bound to say "Hey! Let's go for Sushi today!". Boh Pien (no choice), peer pressure. Later on, the pressure came from my wife, who just absolutely loves Sushi. What to do? The CEO loves Sushi, so very difficult to say no. Then now, the kids also love Sushi. Aiyah, when the shareholders also say they want Sushi, even more difficult to say no.

The Sushi afficianados would encourage me by telling me that I have yet to taste really good Sushi as most of the stuff you get in Singapore just cannot compare to the Sushi in Japan. So, I waited patiently for the day of my epiphany believing that when I get to eat the "real" Sushi, then I shall know the truth and the truth shall set me free.



So, this trip to Tokyo was to be my time of rebirth. This Sushi Ignoramus shall finally behold the sublime beauty of the raw fish! So I set my goal to eat the best Otoro (tuna belly) in the world since this is what all the Sushi lovers seem to love so much. I always believe that if people can love something a lot, then there must be something to love. So I was determined to find this fantastical fillet of fresh fish which is going to change my life forever.


Queue at Sushi Dai, Sushi Daiwa is further down

Where better to find this wonderous wedge of Tuna than at Tsukiji, the World's biggest Fish Market? And being the Kiasu Singaporean, I had to go for the most famous restaurant with the longest queues. I wanted to make sure that the only other way to get it any fresher is to take a bite off a live fish.

The two most famous shops at Tsukiji are Sushi Dai and Sushi Daiwa. They are both located along the same row of shop at block 6. When you get off at Tsukiji, make your way down the left hand side of the main market and you should find it. The next piece of advise is important so pay attention.

The ladies running the restaurants can be quite the Food Nazis as they run the restaurants in a very regimented fashion. When you are queuing up, make sure that all the people who are going into the restaurant are in the queue because you will not be allowed into the restaurant unless all members of the party are present. Oh yes, this rule is clearly stated at the front of the restaurant...... in Japanese. Not only that, if you get to the front of the queue and your friend is not there, not only won't you get into the restaurant, you will need to start queuing again from the back of the queue. Guess how I learn about this rule?

Lucky for me the people who got put in front of me happened to be Singaporeans and seeing what happened, they very graciously offered to let us go back in front of them. Ah, it's good to know that we Singaporeans do look out for each other!

It was a good thing that when it was finally our turn, we managed to be shown into the restaurant together with our newfound Singaporean friends (or else quite Paiseh leh). Now at last, the moment of truth had come! Now I shall be able to capture this precious moment of enlightenment. But alas, when I whipped out my camera, the lady promptly told me that phototaking was not allowed in the restaurant! Doh!! (Then how did all those pictures of the restaurant online get taken I wonder?)


Otoro (Picture taken from another Sushi place)

So I managed to only take the one good photo from my momentous occasion which is the first picture you see. (The one above was taken at a less prestigious Sushi place in Ueno.)

Anyway, what can I say about the Sushi?

Wow, it was very fresh indeed and it is certainly the best sushi I have eaten. But I am far from being the newest Sushi fan. I mean, the Otoro was great, but for me, I wouldn't pay $20 bucks for it in Singapore. The Uni was very very creamy and savoury but again not something I would crave for. The one thing that was quite an eye opener was the Grilled Sea Eel (Anago) of which was the house specialty at the restaurant. Now that one was surprisingly creamy and quite shiok.


Video explaining proper Sushi etiquette - you must watch this!

For those of you who might be preparing for a trip to Japan to have your Sushi moment, may I advise you to brush up on proper Sushi etiquette but having a look at the video above. Japanese society is very regimented and it would be wise to familiarize yourself with the rules or risk getting thrown out of the restaurant! (And the video is quite entertaining too!)

Conclusion

Now, in case you are under the mistaken belief that every Japanese likes Sushi, may I say that I know of some who also can't understand what the big fuss over raw fish is about. From this experience, I can say however, that the Sushi in Japan is really very fresh, and the difference between what you get there and here is quite apparent even for me. But at the end of the day, if you are planning a surprise birthday treat for me, please don't think you are doing me a great favour by inviting me to the most expensive Sushi restaurant in town, unless they serve Matsuzaka beef as well.

36 comments:

Anonymous said...

the most famous sushi restaurant in japan in the english speaking world, but not the very top end in japan. in sushi, it is not juz abt the fish, it is abt the skill in moulding the rice with the fish, the preparation of the rice, the flow of the whole sushi course and of course ur relationship with the sushi chef. it is quite apparent for dr leslie you, is because u have nv sampled top end sushi restaurant in spore like nogawa, yoshida, shiraishi, but the standard of this sushi shop Daiwa, can be of comparable standards to local ones.

Anonymous said...

and in true edomae sushi, anago is not grilled , it is basically simmered. (stewed ? )

JENCOOKS said...

That piece of otoro in the pic is certainly well marbled and it's certainly in this respect about the fish but the rice must not be crumbly but well fused with that piece of fish so that it holds well just before u popped in the mouth...

Holy Drummer said...

All I can say about the hilarious self-deprecating video is that it's 50% truth and 50% bullshit.

A project presentation I did on Japanese Dining and Etiquette had coverage on sushi and if I can recall correctly:

The 'truth' to pay attention to is that the shari (rice) should not be dabbed in any soy sauce because it will disintegrate - turn the sushi upside down and dab only the fish.

Another gripe I personally have is that we Singaporeans tend to mash up our wasabi and mix it with soy sauce to create a murky...suspension, before dabbing our sushi on it. A huge waste because the fish's flavour is masked.

Usually, the fish would already have a lil' wasabi rubbed on it. For more wasabi (to be spread on the underside of the fish) - it is not really required? Unless you deem it absolutely necessary or it's strongly desired - no hard and fast rule.

And finally, Don't you just adore Japanese hospitality? Singaporeans can learn so much from the Nihonjin.

tianhong said...

haha after watching the video, it just make me feel not to go to one if i ever is in japan cos it's way too confusing

Anonymous said...

haha...thanks for the video. the way that guy dipped his piece of sushi in the soy sauce was hilarious! :)

ieat said...

Hey HolyDrummer, you are being a bit sarcastic about the Japanese hospitality thing aren't you? I was told to move to the back of the queue so that 2 japanese ladies can be shown to the seats and my wife was like 10m away. I can't help but feel a little discriminated.

khim said...

les, i agree wif holydrummer on tis..

i read before tat only e fish on e sushi is dabbed wif minimum shoyu to retain e flavor of e fish & should not be like in e video.. (e rice of e sushi looks darn fake to me lor.. dabbed to & fro so many times wif e shoyu & still remain intact.. so "rubbery")

e part on e sushi geta being worn as a geta as well as e wet towel used to wipe e sushi board, knife & face is plain disgusting.. -_-"

tat part is a joke, rite? is there any japanese who could shed light on tis?

ieat said...

Aiyo Khim, of course the video is a satire about Japanese customs and tradition. Only half of it is true and the other half is purely for entertainment. But I had a great laugh so I thought I'd share it with everyone. The sushi rice is one of those fake store display pieces.

You should see their videos on Japanese dating techniques too! It's all part of a series called the Japanese tradition.

We should do one called "the Singapore tradition" as well where we can teach people how to "chope" seats at the hawker centres with a pack of tissues.

Anonymous said...

to khim and anyone else who might be confused about the video, i think the word you're looking for is "parody". just enjoy the humour and dun take all that the video says too seriously! :)

Anonymous said...

we were at daiwa a month ago - we didn't queue long as we were there near closing time. the sushi was good, but hardly fun - the nazi hostesses, the no photo policy, the super fast service...

daiwa charges 3500 yen for the sushi set meal - for 5000 Y we ate at Yamazaki (located between Daiwa and Sushi Dai, same row) and got a big plate of sashimi to go with it as well, and more importantly, we got to eat at our leisure.

ieat said...

Yeah, I don't think I will be back at Daiwa. Next time I will try Yamazaki. Actually I did not find the rice at Daiwa to be anything special. We ate Sushi in Shinjuku station on the first day and I felt the rice there was better.

khim said...

leslie, ya lar.. so it's just nonsense lor?

i think e video is super exaggerating & silly..

anonymous, talk to my hand.. *roll eyes*

Anonymous said...

to anonymous #1..

keep in mind that sushi daiwa is considered an everyday restaurant and not a top end restaurant. i think we all know that - look at the service and target clientele. it is affordable and it is the most popular/famous restaurant in the market.

please dont be so snobbish and think you are a top sushi critic/expert. ieat was commenting on sushi in japan vs sushi in singapore in general, and anyone who doesnt agree that a "normal" japanese sushi place japan beats an "above average" singapore sushi place is probably just trying to kid himself or is overly patriotic/nationalistic.

i hope you realise that to get "everday japan restaurant" quality sushi in singapore, you have to visit "top end restaurants" like nogawa, etc. (flows from your analysis btw..)

so obviously the difference in quality is apparent.. it is not because ieat have not visited such "top end" places; that is not the issue. do you eat "top end sushi restaurants" in singapore frequently or exclusively? if you dont, how can u be so "accustomed" to "high quality" sushi that you dont find the difference apparent?

also, if you are so accustomed to singapore's top end quality, i am sure japan's top end will blow your mind.

so dont compare an everyday japanese restaurant to a high end singapore restaurant and say "singapore and japanese sushi are the same... you cant tell the diff...", coz that is what you are implying.

cherns said...

I didn't bother queueing for Daiwa and ended up going to another restaurant along the middle ring of tsukiji.

The video is hilarious btw :)

sumosumo said...

i went to daiwa and i loved it. however its true about the nazi staff, the place is small so u hv to turnover quickly..

but there are many stalls around, and i tried another 1 or 2, and prices are reaonsable and the sushi is better than most of what we can get in sg.

good enuff for me..!

ieat said...

How does the Sushi at Daiwa compare with the top end restaurants in Singapore as suggested by Anonymous #1?

singaporeshortstories.blogspot.com said...

I believe the Japanese treats in Japan must be very fresh!

Amagada said...

Here's a theory on why Singaporeans dipped their (I would say our) sushi in wasabi-suspended soy sauce.....

yes, precisely to musk the taste of the fish that is not so fresh....

sigh....

taukwa said...

I don't know whether I have visited Daiwa but I have eaten at 2 restaurants outside Tsukiji. Both with a queue outside too. I have also been to Nogawa and Yoshida. The difference? He he, I cannot tell cos I am definitely not a discerning sushi eater. Don't like it very much. I went because of friends. Anyway, the only thing I can say is that I felt that the seafood served at the restaurants outside Tsukiji is definitely very fresh.

wahcow said...

u recommend the $80 matsu vs the $5 beef steak, you get humtum

now you say you dont really like sushi, and they say you didnt go to a restaurant high end (read = expensive) enough !!!

moooaahaha...very difficult neh.
forget them lah....

and eh...lets go for ikan parang "sashimi" at tiong bahru next week.....

Anonymous said...

anoynomous #1 here, from the pictures , i would say in terms of value, daiwa has more value given 3500 yen has uni, anago , ootoro etc. U can never find this price in singapore. In terms of skill, i have nv eaten at sushi daiwa , and have no plans to try it, but from the pictures i would rate it abt the same. maybe a just a slight advantage for freshness and skill level wise to daiwa, because sometimes those sushi chef at nogawa, yoshida or shiraishi can be inconsistent in their toppings issue and skill. But if u get them making your sushi and on a good day that the fish is fresh and on season and in good condition, and given that u have no qualms in spending buckloads here, i am sure u can find a better experience here in sg since u paid top end dollar.

to the other anonymous, i am just reminding ieat that daiwa is not the best sushi restaurant in japan, not trying to be snobbish here. for the record i have ate at the mentioned places in singapore a couple of times, and i do know what are some of the common sushi tests thanks to reading and watchin some tv.. soon i will sample some of the best sushi in tokyo.

Anonymous said...

also like to add, if u would like to know how top end sushi in tokyo looks like or how they operate, for those who only get their information in english, look into this video where anthony bourdain ate at the most famous and respected sushi restaurant in tokyo. the sushi chef is a japan living national treasure.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lavkjcSrNWg&feature=PlayList&p=42B41469562EF46F&index=33

Anonymous said...

to add also, most japanese may also tink it is ridiculous to pay so much for a sushi meal, approx 20k yen and above for dinner, and no , u do not eat special connections to eat at these places, u just need phonecall and call in advance to reserve a seat.

sumosumo said...

anon #1... I m truly amazed you have so much to say and able to provide a long and detailed critique regarding Daiwa sushi vs Nogawa, yoshida, shiraishi - from just looking at the pictures...

you must truly be a sushi god..

are u also a wine guru? u can tell the bouquet, year and vineyard just by looking at a picture of a glass of wine...?
wow..

ieat said...

OK, I am leaving my books opened on Sushi until I get to eat at the Sukiyabashi Jiro. Sumo mentioned that it was about the rice before and I must admit that the rice at Daiwa was not anything that spectacular. From the video, it seems that the rice at Sukiyabashi is really special. I can imagine that that will take skill to do.

So Anon #1, I take it you will be eating at this Sukiyabashi Jiro place eh? That's great, let us know about your experience and if you can, maybe post some photos in our forum.

Anonymous said...

to ieat,
i do not plan on eating at sukiyabashi jiro as there are many reports that mr jiro do not treat his customers well and the service u meet there can be rather appalling, maybe esp so if u are an unknown foreigner. instead i will head to one of his former disciple's shop who is equally rated on par as him or maybe better.

Anonymous said...

no photos are also allowed in the top places i mentioned, strictly

ieat said...

Ah So! Please either write to me or join our forum so that we can be updated on your experience there. The next time I get a chance to go to Tokyo, I would want like to try it too.

I heard sukiyabashi jiro if fully booked up till end of the year.

Its a real bummer that they don't allow for photos.

Anyway which restaurant in Singapore would you say is the best for Sushi enlightenment?

Anonymous said...

I have friends who have eaten at Sushi Daiwa and Sushi Dai and preferred Sushi Dai. I myself have eaten at Sushi Dai and it was a claustrophobic but very enjoyable gastronomic moment. Not to mention the affable chef and photography is allowed

Hungry Dru said...

Just went here today! Thanks for the insights. Also, follow-up to your Tokyo posts, thought you may be interested in my review on the 3-star kaiseki restaurant in Tokyo, Hamadaya: http://www.hungrydru.com/2008/12/25/genyadana-hamadaya-tokyo-kaiseki/

Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year!

Jeffrey said...

I am in Tokyo now...planned on going to fish market tmr and try daiwa..BUT saw on the website its rest day for the fish market!!

i think i would go for the sushi store at shinjuku station!

Anonymous said...

Both places are comparable. Sushi Dai has less seats so the wait may be slightly longer. You are also able to choose your last piece of sushi at Dai if you order the Omakase (Chef's choice) selection. Photos are permitted at Dai and one of the three chefs is quite friendly and can speak basic english. As a matter of fact, all three chefs were willing to pose for a picture when we were there in Oct 2007 and July 2008. It's definitely worth the 45 to 90 minutes it takes to get to the front of the queue.

Anonymous said...

The movie clip is hilarious.

I know not everything is true but still it is a breathe of fresh air.

Name: Jonny said...

Mate, the video is a joke... (-_-);

I showed this video around in Japan when I was there years back just to have a laugh.

I hope noone takes it seriously. :-x

ieat said...

I seriously doubt if anyone would, really. The plastic rice sushi is quite a dead giveaway isn't it?

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